Barrister Babur Bari holds a trove of memories, resisting the fate of becoming just another Kolkata anecdote. Nestled in a part of the city seemingly awaiting its Instagram moment, it boasts well-proportioned houses with slatted windows standing in contrast to newly erected tile and tinted glass structures. Amidst this, quaint grocery stores, known as mudikhanas, struggle against the onslaught of two-minute delivery apps.
The custodians of this picturesque house in the heart of Kolkata are four women—Nandita Basu, 79, her sole daughter Krishnakali, the young caretaker Moitrei Das, and the cook Jhorna Das. Together, they not only safeguard a beautiful residence but also preserve a way of life.
The house’s history traces back to 1855 when businessman Chandi Basu, Nandita’s great-great father-in-law, decided to build in Beleghata, then a wilderness on the outskirts of north Kolkata. Chandi Basu, involved in corporatizing the fisheries business, strategically chose to settle near the East Kolkata Wetlands. Despite the flourishing fishery business during Nandita’s arrival in 1965, the eventual decline coincided with the CPM era.
Barrister Babur Bari, the residence named after Nandita’s father-in-law, is a stately yet deceptively spacious structure. In its early days, Barrister Basu practiced law from a grand office on the ground floor, leading to the house’s iconic moniker. Architecturally influenced by European styles, the entrance opens to a modest thakurdalan (courtyard) with pillars, leading to a more private, cobbled-floor inner courtyard adorned in turquoise blue.
Known for hosting one of Kolkata’s renowned Durga Pujas in the late 1800s, the Basu family puja was distinctive for being organized predominantly by the women of the household. Even during the communal riots of 1946-1947, the house provided shelter to Muslims using Hindu names, a decision taken by the women of the family. Despite the challenges posed by the coronavirus pandemic, the Basu women continued the century-old tradition with a small puja at the house.
Nandita, the matriarch, asserts that the 200-year-old structure is held together by the determination of the women, especially since her husband’s passing in 2017. However, the house faces persistent threats from developers eager to demolish it.
Despite financial challenges exacerbated by the pandemic, Krishnakali, Nandita’s daughter, has taken proactive steps. An Instagram page was created, and the house was rented out for film and web series shoots, generating much-needed revenue. However, the struggle continues to convince co-owners, hesitant to retain the property, of the house’s commercial viability.
In a bid to secure the house’s future, Krishnakali explores options such as seeking heritage status and collaborating with individuals interested in converting it into a homestay. Despite the hardships of the past two years, the resolve to save Barrister Babur Bari remains unwavering.